Menggerus kain adalah cara tradisional untuk melicin dan memadatkan kain supaya kelihatan halus dan berkilat. Kemahiran menggerus ini dipercayai dibawa masuk ke Tanah Melayu oleh pedagang-pedagang dari Tanah Melayu oleh pedagang-pedagang dari Tanah Bugis (Sulawesi) di antara abad ke 17 dan 18 Masihi.
Kegiatan ii menular ke beberapa buah negeri seperti di Jugra, Selangor; Pekan, Pahang; Kuala kangsar dan Setiawan, Perak; Muar da Batu Pahat, Johor dan Kuala Terengganu, Terengganu.
Peralatan dan bahan menggerus yang diperlukan adalah papan gerus, jorang (kayu yang digunakan untuk menggerakkan kulit siput), siput gerus (cowry shell-cypria tigers), damar batu dan lilin lebah.
Damar batu digosok di permukaan papan gerus sebelum kerja-kerja menggerus dijalankan. Kain yang hendak di gerus perlu disapu dengan lilin lebah terlebih dahulu supaya kerja-kerja menggerus dapat dilakukan dengan mudah. Kain kemudiannya di bentang di atas papan gerus dan siput gerus digosok di atas permukaan kain menyebabkan kain kelihatan licin da berkilat.
Kain songket, tenun, batik dan langi di antara kain yang biasa di gerus dan kemudian anggun digayakan sebagai samping, kain kelubung, kain dagang luar, selendang, setangan (sapu tangan) atau tengkolok. Dahulu kain bergerus menjadi pakaian kebesaran kerabat diraja dan pembesar istana.
Loth calendering or burnishig (gerus) is a tradisional method of enhancing textile by giving it lasting shine, thus preserving its fine quality. This techology is believed to have been introduced to the Malay Peninsula by the Bugis traders from the Sulawesi Archipelago between the 17th and 18 centuries.
Sumber : Broshur Kraftangan Malaysia
Loth calendering or burnishig (gerus) is a tradisional method of enhancing textile by giving it lasting shine, thus preserving its fine quality. This techology is believed to have been introduced to the Malay Peninsula by the Bugis traders from the Sulawesi Archipelago between the 17th and 18 centuries.
This technique later spread out to several other districts throughout the peninsula such as Jugra, Selangor; Pekan, Pahang; Kuala kangsar dan Setiawan, Perak; Muar da Batu Pahat, Johor and Kuala Terengganu, Terengganu.
Equipment for the calendering process comprises a calendering board; a calendering rod (a legth of wood to hold the shell in position), cowry shells (cypria tigers), resin and besswax.
The process begins with preparing the calendaring board by rubbing the entire groove with resin. Besswax is applied sparigly over the cloth – to enable the cowry shell to glide smoothly over the surface. The cloth is the palced on the board. The shell is moved forward alongside the groove, rubbing the cloth until the whole cloth is burnished. This process will make the cloth smoothen and shining.
There are made into garments such as samping (short sarong), shawl, handkerchief and headgear. Caledered cloth was so prestigious in early days; it was oly worn by royalty and palace chieftains.
Sumber : Broshur Kraftangan Malaysia
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, Selasa, April 17, 2012
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