The art of telepuk or gilding cloth is a technique used to pattern textiles since the 18th. Century. The elaborate patterns are actually created by gluing on perada or thin gold foil on a pre-calendered cloth.
Patterning cloth using this method is common to the Malay Archipelago; in Indonesia it is known as prada. This technique was believed to have been introduced to the Peninsula by Bugis merchants.
The equipment used is displayed in the showcase on your right. These include gum arabic (an adhesive), perada gold foil, various sarang bunga (carved wooden stamps), the sudip (bamboo spatula) and brush.
Various textiles and items of clothing can be gilded, including kain Bugis and batiks. Regardless of the type of cloth used, it must first be calendered to enable the gold foil to adhere well.
Before gilding can begin, the artisan has to prepare the adhesive; a little gum arabic is placed on the back of the forearm and worked vigorously with the spatula. The required wooden stamp is brought into contact with the adhesive, then stamped onto the cloth. Gold foil is then carefully placed on the glued surface and excess brushed off and reused.
A variety of cloth and clothing for both men and women can be patterned this way including hip-wrappers, sarongs, samping (short sarong) and the cloth headdress. However gilding is normally restricted to areas which are visible when worn in an effort to economize.
Much skill is needed to align the blocks and ensure accurate registration. Today, there are few practicing artisans though efforts have made to revive this delicate art.
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